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Showing results for tags 'tri-x'.
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Software: Adobe Photoshop 7.0; -
Software: Adobe Photoshop Elements 2.0; ISO400 Mode Aperture Priority Metering Matrix Auto Focus Shutter Speed not recorded Aperture not recorded EV not recorded Exposure Compensation 0EV Image film Tripod No Flash did not fire Scanned Negative Yes -
Tri-X, Contax -
[5-a] an ode to a chicken L'elogio del Pollo Ruspante
micheleberti posted a gallery image in Uncategorized
© Copyright © Michele Berti. All rights reserved.Permission required for any usage. Please see: <a href="http://www.micheleberti.it/copyright" target="_blank">www.micheleberti.it/copyright</a>
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[17-b] settimana santa (holy week) Settimana Santa Castiglion Fiorentino (2008)
micheleberti posted a gallery image in Uncategorized
Copyright: Michele Berti; Make: Nikon; Model: LS-5000; Software: Adobe Photoshop CS6 (Macintosh);© Copyright © Michele Berti. All rights reserved.Permission required for any usage. Please see: <a href="http://www.micheleberti.it/copyright" target="_blank">www.micheleberti.it/copyright</a>
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Hello all, Reading online reviews (paid sponsored or otherwise) about currently available 35mm film scanners has created more confusion for me than anything else. I don't know which reviewers are actual users and practitioners, and consumer reviewers are all over the place. I primarily photograph with Tri-X 400 (EI 200 to 800) and FP4+. Developers are D76 and XTOL. Computer is MacBook Pro (2016). Usage will be primarily web-based (blogs), and not for print/enlarging purposes. For post-processing fine-tuning and sizing, are either Lightroom or Photoshop preferable? Photoshop seems like overkill, for me. I'd like to hear your experiences with and recommendations for scanner and software. Thanks much, Andrew -
anyone tried and knows good time to process tri-x shot at 1000 iso with d-76. massive dev chart doesn't have the numbers. also, massive dev chart lists the same time: 6.75 for tri-x shot at 400 and 800 with stock solution. but that was off topic. the question is, which time should i use: 8.5 perhaps? p. s. i can explain why i do need this. my l35 camera doesn't have iso setting over than 1000. it has 640, i believe, then 1000. the next edition of the camera has iso 1600 however it doesn't allow to mount the lens filter. so i prefer this version, and max iso i can shoot with it is 1000. this is why.
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Just scanned a couple strips of old 35mm Tri-X negs (about 10 frames) and I'm pretty sure the spots the images show are mold. Is there a way to clean the negs at this point? Is it best to toss them out? The two strips were shot 20-30 years ago and stored by themselves without sleeves curled up in a small cardboard box. I'm pretty sure the issue is confined just to these negs. I haven't encountered it before. 1st image posted here is the worst one of the bunch. A couple negs show only 5 or 6 spots. Thanks for any input
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when I scan Kodak 5222 with my Minolta DImage Scan Dual IV, I see this pattern: http://norayr.am/weblog/uploads/2018/10-28/2018-10-07-0037_sm.jpg http://norayr.am/weblog/uploads/2018/10-28/2018-10-07-0038_sm.jpghttp://norayr.am/weblog/uploads/2018/10-28/2018-10-07-0041_sm.jpghttp://norayr.am/weblog/uploads/2018/10-27/2018-10-07-0035_sm.jpg It also appeared with AGFA 100, but I usually don't get this problem. Lets say this is Kodak Tri-X pushed to 1600 and it looks okay. http://norayr.am/weblog/uploads/2018/10-44/2018-10-07-0026_sm.jpghttp://norayr.am/weblog/uploads/2018/10-42/2018-10-07-0009_sm.jpg So is this moire pattern? Why does it appear on some films, and does not appear on others? I scanned the same film with CanoScan 9000 mk ii and it's ok, no such pattern. Is something wrong with my Minolta scanner? What can I do to avoid it? -
Hey, I shot some Kodak Tmax 400 (TMY) at 400 ISO yesterday. The film has been in my camera for quite some time. If I have to guess from around 2010 (the film expired on 09/2010). I didn't compensate for possible loss of sensitivity by overexposing because I figured it was B&W and not that prone. Should I ask the lab that is going to process the film to process it differently? I read somewhere about having half of the roll processed one way (normal) and the other half as they see fit(?). Any more advice on this approach? I have another roll of TMY, a roll of Tmax P3200(expired on 03/2009) and some Tri-x(expired on 03/2010). Similar to the testroll these haven't always been in the fridge though (possibly a couple of summers in a hotter than average room (=bedroom under the roof)). Any recommendations for shooting and processing these? Thanks in advance, A.
